He mea ngaro rānei ngā urunga hiraka hei whakapai ake i te kiri me te makawe?
Kua hoha koe ki te oho ake me te makawe whiri me te kiri kōpiko i tō mata? Ka pā kino tēnei uauatanga o te ata ki tō kiri me tō makawe i te roanga o te wā. He urunga hiraka pea te otinga māmā, papai hoki māu.Ae, he tino āwhina te urunga hiraka kounga teitei i tō kiri me tō makawe. Ka whakaitihia e tōna mata maeneene te waku, ko te tikanga he iti ake te whati o te makawe me te iti ake o ngā ara moe. Ka āwhina hoki te hiraka ki te pupuri i te makuku, ka pupuri i tō kiri kia makuku, kia kore ai hoki ō makawe e pōrearea. Ka tūtohu tonu ahau100% hiraka māpere[^1].
Tata ki te 20 tau i roto i te umanga hiraka, kua kite ahau i te rerekētanga nui mā te huri noa ki te urunga hiraka. He maha ngā pātai e pātaihia mai ana ki ahau mō tēnei. E hiahia ana ngā kaihoko ki te mōhio mēnā he auaha noa iho, he tino whai hua rānei. E whakaaro ana rātou he aha te mea e pai ake ai tētahi urunga hiraka i tētahi atu. Ko te pono, kāore i te rite te hanganga o ngā hiraka katoa, ā, ko te mōhio ki ngā mea hei rapu te mea nui. Kei konei ahau ki te whakautu i aua pātai noa. E hiahia ana ahau ki te āwhina i a koe ki te mārama ki ngā painga tūturu me te whiriwhiri i te hua pai rawa atu māu.
Ko tēhea urunga hiraka pai rawa atu mō te makawe me te kiri?
He rite tonu te āhua o te maha o ngā urunga hiraka. Me pēhea te whiriwhiri? He moumou moni te whiriwhiri i tētahi he, ā, e kore e whiwhi i ngā painga e hiahiatia ana e koe.Ko te urunga hiraka pai rawa atu he mea hanga mai i te 100%Tau 6A[^2] Hiraka māpere me tetaumaha māmā[^3] i waenga i te 19 me te 25. Ka tukuna e tēnei huinga te maeneene pai rawa atu, te pakari, me te ahua pai. Koinei taku e tūtohu tonu ana ki aku kiritaki mō
ngā painga tino pai mō te makawe me te kiri,Ina āwhina ahau i ngā kiritaki ki te whiriwhiri i te urunga hiraka tino tika, ka kī atu ahau kia arotahi rātou ki ngā mea nui e toru. Ehara i te mea ko te tae anake, ko te utu rānei. Ko te uara tūturu kei roto i te kounga o te rauemi. Anei he whakamārama mō ngā mea me rapu e koe kia whiwhi ai koe i aua painga whakamiharo katoa mō tō makawe me tō kiri.
He Whakamārama mō te Momo Hiraka, te Momme, me te Tau
Ko te mea nui ko te momo hiraka. E hiahia ana koe100% hiraka māpere[^1]. Koinei te hiraka kounga teitei rawa atu ka taea e koe te hoko. I ahu mai i ngā toke hiraka e whāngaihia ana ki te kai motuhake o ngā rau māpere. Ka puta mai i tēnei kai whakahaeretia ngā muka hiraka he tino roa, he kaha, he mā parakore. Ko ētahi atu momo hiraka, pērā i te hiraka Tussah, he mea hanga mai i ngā toke hiraka mohoao, ā, he poto ake, he taratara ake ō rātou muka. Mō te mata maeneene ki tō kiri, ko te hiraka māpere anake te kōwhiringa.
Te Mārama ki ngā Tohu Kounga Matua
Hei whiriwhiri i te mea pai rawa atu, me mārama koe ki ētahi atu kupu e rua: ko te momme me te grade. Ko te momme te huarahi e ine ai tātou.te matotoru o te hiraka[^4], pērā i te maha o ngā miro mō te miro. Ko te kounga e pā ana ki te kounga o te muka hiraka tonu.
| Tauwehenga Kounga | Kounga iti | Kounga Waenga | Kounga Teitei (E taunakitia ana) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Taumaha o Māmā | I raro iho i te 19 | 19-22 | 22-25 |
| Te Ahua Hiraka | Tau C, B rānei | Taumata B | Tau 6A[^2] |
| Momo muka | Hiraka Mohoao | Ngā muka whakaranu | 100% Hiraka Māpere |
| He taupoki urunga i hangaia kiTau 6A[^2], Ko te hiraka 22-momme Mulberry te wāhi pai mō te papai, te pakari, me te whai huatanga. Koinei taku e whakamahi nei, e taunaki ana hoki i ngā wā katoa. |
Ko tēhea hiraka te mea pai mō te kiri me te makawe?
E hiahia ana koe ki ngā painga whakamiharo o te hiraka, engari ko tēhea momo te mea tino pai? Ki te whakamahi koe i te momo hē, tera pea kei te moe koe i runga i ngā muka taratara, kāore i te tino whai hua, ā, ka ngaro katoa i a koe ngā painga.Mō te kiri me te makawe,100% hiraka māpereKo [^1] te mea tino pai rawa atu. Mā ōna muka roa, ōrite hoki ka hangaia he mata tino maeneene. Mā tēnei ka whakaitihia te waku ki tō kiri me tō makawe, ka ārai ingā miro moe[^5],ngā pito pakaru[^6], me te huruhuru. Ko tōnangā pūmua tūturukei a [^7] anō hokingā āhuatanga whakamakuku[^8] he pai mō ngā mea e rua.
Kia hohonu ake tā tātou titiro ki te take i tino tū motuhake ai te hiraka māpere. I roto i aku tau hanga, he maha ngā momo kākahu kua mahi ahau. Engari kāore he mea hei rite mō te hiraka māpere ina tae mai ki te tiaki whaiaro. Ko te kakano te mea e rerekē ai. Whakaarohia te whakahaere i tō ringa ki runga i tētahi urunga miro noa. Ka taea e koe te rongo i te kakano o te whatu. Inaianei whakaarohia te whakahaere i tō ringa ki runga i te hiraka parakore. He tino rerekē, he rite ki te wai te ahua.
Te Pūtaiao o te Māeneene
Kei roto i te hanganga muka te mea ngaro. Ko ngā muka hiraka māpere ngā mea roa rawa atu, ā, he tino pumau hoki ka taea e tātou te hanga. Ina whatua ngātahitia ēnei miro roa, ka hangaia he papanga me te iti o te waku.
- Mō te Makawe:Ka rere tō makawe ki runga i te mata, kaua e mau, e piri. Ko te tikanga ka ara ake koe me te makawe maeneene, iti ake te raranga, ā, he iti akengā pito pakaru[^6] i roto i te wā.
- Mō te Kiri:Ka neke ngāwari tō mata i runga i te urunga i a koe e moe ana. Mā tēnei ka ārai i te kiri kei tōia, kei takai rānei, ka hua ake ngā kita moe rangitahi ka kitea i te ata. Mō te wā roa, mā te iti o te ahotea o te pō ki tō kiri ka āwhina i te whakaiti i te hanganga o ngā raina angiangi tuturu.
Te Whakataurite i ngā Momo Hiraka
| Momo Hiraka | Pūtake muka | Ngā Āhuatanga o te Muka | Pai rawa atu mō |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hiraka Māpere | Ngā noke hiraka whakangāwari (Bombyx mori) | Roa, ōrite, maeneene, kaha | Ngā urunga urunga, ngā moenga, ngā kākahu papai |
| Hiraka Tussah | Ngā noke hiraka mohoao | Poto ake, kāore i te ōrite, taratara ake | He maha atu ngā papanga kakano, ngā whakapaipai |
| Hiraka Charmeuse | Ehara i te momo, engari he whatu | Mata hātene, tuara mangu | Ngā kākahu, ngā paraikete, ngā uhi urunga |
| Hātini | Ehara i te muka, engari he whatu | Ka taea te hanga mai i te polyester | Hiraka rūpahu, kōwhiringa utu iti |
| E kite ana koe, ahakoa ētahi atu ingoa e puta ake ana, ko te Mulberry te muka tūturu e hiahiatia ana e koe mō ngā hua pai rawa atu. Ko te Charmeuse he momo whatu hiraka noa iho hei whakakanapa i tētahi taha, he mea tino pai mō te tauera urunga. Engari me whakarite kia rite tonu.100% hiraka māpere[^1] ataahua. |
He āwhina ngā urunga hiraka ki te kiri me te makawe?
Kua rongo koe i ngā kereme, engari he tino whai hua ngā urunga hiraka? He tika tāu whakapae. Ko te haumi ki tētahi mea hou me te kore e kite i ngā taunakitanga tūturu ka rite ki tētahi mōrearea nui.Ae. Kua kite ahau i ngā hua mō ngā tau. Ka āwhina ngā urunga hiraka i te kiri mā te whakaiti i tengā miro moe[^5] me te pupuri i te makuku. Ka āwhina i te makawe mā te ārai i te pōturi, te whiri, me te whati. Ko te mata maeneene me ngā āhuatanga taiao o te muka hiraka ngā mea e whakarato ana i ēnei painga kua tautokona e te pūtaiao.
Ehara i te mea he kōrero hokohoko noa iho ngā painga o te hiraka; engari e ahu mai ana i ngā āhuatanga ahurei o te muka. Kua mahi tika ahau me ngā rauemi mata, ā, ka taea e au te kōrero atu ki a koe he aha i tino rerekē ai i te pō, i te pō. E rua ngā whakaaro matua:te pupuri i te makuku[^9] mete whakaiti i te waku[^10].
Te Āwhina a te Hiraka i tō Kiri
He tino mimiti te miro. He rite tana mahi ki te hautai, e kukume ana i te makuku mai i ngā mea katoa e pā ana ki a ia, tae atu ki tō kiri me ngā kirimi pō utu nui ka pania e koe. Engari, he iti ake te mimiti o te hiraka. Ka taea e tō kiri te pupuri i tōna makuku tūturu. He tino āwhina tēnei mō te hunga he kiri maroke, he kiri tairongo rānei. Mā te pupuri i tō kiri kia makuku i te pō, ka oho ake koe me te āhua hou ake, he momona ake. Ko te mata maeneene hoki te tikanga kāore tō kiri e tōia ana i te pō katoa, he tino take tēnei o ngā raina moe.
Te Āwhina a te Hiraka i ō Makawe
E pā ana ēnei mātāpono ki ō makawe. Ka mau te āhua taratara o te miro ki ngā kiri o te makawe, ka puta he waku i a koe e hurihuri ana. Ka hua ake tēnei i taua "mataku"upoko moenga[^11],” he makawe pōturi, tae noa ki te whati. Mā te mata maeneene rawa o te hiraka ka taea e ō makawe te paheke noa. Ko te tikanga tēnei:
- He iti ake te makawe pōuri:Ka noho maeneene tonu te kiri o te makawe.
- He iti ake ngā raruraru:Kāore te makawe e pīrorihia.
- Te Whakaiti i te Pakaru:Ko te iti o te waku he iti ake te ahotea me te kino ki te kakau makawe. He tino whai hua tēnei mēnā he makawe miro, he makawe angiangi, he makawe kua pania ki te tae, nā te mea he ngāwari ake ēnei momo makawe ki te pakaru me te maroke. Ka kī tonu ahau ki aku kiritaki he haumi iti tēnei mō te makawe hauora ake i te wā roa.
He aha te momo hiraka pai rawa atu mō ngā urunga?
He mea whakapoauau te whakamahi i ngā kupu pēnei i te "satin," "charmeuse," me te "Mulberry". Ki te hoko koe i te rauemi hē, kāore koe e whiwhi i ngā painga o te kiri me te makawe e tumanakohia ana e koe.Ko te momo hiraka pai rawa atu mō ngā urunga ko100% hiraka māpere[^1]. Ina koa, me rapu koe i tētahi i hangaia ki tewhatu charmeuse[^12]. Mā tēnei whatu ka tino kanapa, ka maeneene hoki tetahi taha, ko tetahi taha ia he mangu, ka tino pai te mata moe.
Me whakamārama tātou i te pōhēhētanga i waenga i ēnei kupu, koinei hoki te pūtake matua o ngā pātai ka puta mai i ngā kiritaki hou. Ko te mārama ki te papakupu te mea nui ki te hoko atamai. He maha ngā waitohu e whakamahi ana i ēnei kupu hei whakawhitiwhiti, engari he rerekē rawa te tikanga. Hei kaihanga, e mōhio ana ahau he mea nui te rerekētanga.
Hiraka me te Hātini: He aha te rerekētanga?
Koinei te rerekētanga tino nui.
- Hirakahe muka tūturu i hangaia e ngā toke hiraka. He muka pūmua e mōhiotia ana mō tōna kaha, tōna ngawari, mengā āhuatanga whakamakuku[^8]. Ko te hiraka māpere te momo hiraka kounga teitei rawa atu.
- Hātinihe momo whatu, ehara i te muka. Ka taea te whatu i te satin mai i ngā momo rauemi maha, tae atu ki te hiraka, engari ko te nuinga o te wā ka hangaia mai i ngā muka hangai pēnei i te polyester. Ahakoa he maeneene te ahua o te satin polyester, kāore e taea te manawa, tengā āhuatanga whakamakuku[^8] o te hiraka tūturu. Ka taea e ia te whakawerawera i a koe, ā, kāore e rite ngā painga tiaki kiri ki ērā.
Charmeuse: Te Whatu e Hiahiatia ana e Koe
Nō reira, kei hea te tūranga o te kupu "charmeuse"?
- Charmeusehe momo whatu motuhake anō hoki, ehara i te muka. E mōhiotia ana mō tōna taha mua kanapa, kanapa, me tōna taha muri pōuri, mātotoru. Ina whatua ngā miro hiraka i te momo charmeuse, ka whiwhi koe i te pai o ngā ao e rua: te mata whakamiharo, iti-waku o te whatu satin me ngā painga taiao o te muka hiraka. Nō reira, ko te uhi urunga tino pai kua tapaina“100% Maperi Hiraka Charmeuse.”Mā tēnei ka kitea e koe:
- Te muka:100% Hiraka Māpere (te muka taiao pai rawa atu)
- Te Whatu:Charmeuse (te whatu maeneene, kanapa hoki) Mā tēnei huinga ka whiwhi koe i ngā pānga pai katoa ki tō makawe me tō kiri e tumanakohia ana e koe mai i tētahihiraka papai[^13] urunga.
Whakamutunga
He huarahi māmā, kua whakamātauhia hoki te hipoki urunga hiraka Mulberry kounga teitei hei whakapai ake i tō kiri me tō makawe i ia pō. He haumitanga whai hua tēnei ki roto i tō mahinga tiaki i a koe anō o ia rā.
[^1]: Tirohia te take e kiia ai ko te hiraka 100% te mea pai rawa atu mō te tiaki kiri me te makawe. [^2]: Kia mārama ki te hiranga o te Tau 6A hei whakarite i ngā hua hiraka kounga teitei. [^3]: Akohia te pānga o te taumaha momme ki te kounga me te pakari o ngā urunga hiraka. [^4]: Tūhurahia te hiranga o te matotoru o te hiraka i te whiriwhiri i te urunga tika. [^5]: Kimihia te āwhina a ngā urunga hiraka ki te whakaiti i ngā miro moe i runga i tō kiri. [^6]: Akohia te whakaiti i ngā pito pakaru o ngā urunga hiraka. [^7]: Kimihia te whai wāhi a ngā pūmua tūturu i roto i te hiraka ki te hauora o te kiri me te makawe. [^8]: Kia mārama ki ngā āhuatanga whakamakuku o te hiraka me ōna painga mō tō kiri. [^9]: Tūhurahia te āwhina a ngā urunga hiraka ki te pupuri i te makuku mō te kiri hauora. [^10]: Akohia te whai huatanga o te whakaiti i te waku ki tō makawe me tō kiri i te wā e moe ana. [^11]: Kimihia te whakaiti i te pane moenga me te whakapai ake i te hauora o te makawe e ngā urunga hiraka. [^12]: Kia mārama ki ngā painga o te whatu charmeuse i roto i ngā urunga hiraka. [^13]: Tirohia ngā take e kiia ai ngā urunga hiraka he mea papai mō te tiaki i a koe anō.
Wā tuku: 19 o Ākuhata 2025