He aha te rerekētanga tūturu i waenga i te hiraka utu nui me te hiraka utu nui?

Kei te pōhēhē koe i te nui o te utu mō ngā hua hiraka? Mā tēnei aratohu koe e ako ki te kimi i te hiraka kounga teitei, kia māia ai koe i tō hokonga e whai ake nei.Hiraka kounga teitei[^1] e tautuhia ana e tōna āhua, tōna kanapa, me tōna taumaha. He tino ngawari, he maeneene hoki te āhua o te hiraka utu nui, he kanapa pērara ngawari, ā, he taumaha ake nā te mea he teitei akeTatau o ngā māmā[^2]. He maha ngā wā ka ahua kore e maeneene ngā hiraka iti te utu, he kanapa rite ki te kirihou, ā, he angiangi ake.

Ahakoa te āhua uaua, he māmā noa iho te wehewehe i te hiraka pai mai i te hiraka kino ina mōhio koe ki ngā mea hei tirotiro. Hei tangata kua tata ki te 20 tau ahau e mahi ana ki te hiraka, ka taea e au te whakaatu ki a koe ngā mahi ngāwari hei hoko atamai. Me wehewehe ngā āhuatanga matua kia taea ai e koe te hoko me te māia, me te whiwhi i te kounga papai e tika ana māu.

Me pēhea te mōhio he kounga teitei te hiraka?

E tū ana koe i roto i tētahi toa, e tirotiro ana rānei i te ipurangi, engari he rite tonu te āhua o te hiraka katoa. Me pēhea te wehewehe i te pai me te kino? Me whai whakamātautau māmā koe hei tirotiro i te kounga.E toru ngā mea matua ka kitea ai te hiraka kounga teitei: tōna pā, tōna kanapa, me tōna taumaha (Māmā). He ngawari, he mātao te āhua o te hiraka kounga tūturu, he rite ki te pīrara te kanapa ka rerekē i te māramatanga, ā, he pakari te āhua, kāore e ngoikore. Ātete hoki ki te miro ina whakapikohia.I roto i taku mahi i Wonderful Silk, kua āwhina ahau i te tini o ngā kiritaki kia mārama ki ēnei rerekētanga. He tokomaha e miharo ana ina rongo tuatahi rātou i tā mātou 22 Momme silk i muri i te whakamahinga ki ngā momo rerekē iti ake te utu. Ehara i te mea ka kitea noa te rerekētanga; he mea ka taea e koe te rongo pono. Hei āwhina i a koe kia noho hei tohunga, me titiro atu tātou ki ēnei whakamātautau.

TeWhakamātautau Pā[^3]

Koinei te huarahi māmā rawa atu ki te aromatawai i te hiraka.Hiraka kounga teiteiHe āhua ahurei tō [^1]. Me tino ngawari, me te māeneene hoki, me te pā mātao ki tō kiri. Ina rere mā roto i ō ringaringa, ka rere pērā i te wai. He paku ngāwari hoki; ki te tōia mārire, me paku ngāwari, kātahi ka hoki ki tōna āhua. Ko te hiraka kounga iti, te satin polyester rānei, i tētahi atu taha, ka mārō, ka rite ki te ware pi, ka pahekeheke rawa rānei i te mea hanga. He whakamātautau pai ki te kāinga ko te whakamātautau kita. Hopukia tētahi kokonga o te hiraka ka mirimiri ki roto i tō ringaringa mō ētahi hēkona.Hiraka kounga teiteiKāore e nui te miro o [^1], engari mā te hiraka iti ake te utu ka ngāwari ake te pupuri i ngā miro.

TeWhakamātautau Kanapa me te Whatu[^4]

Muri iho, tirohia te whakaata a te hiraka i te mārama.Hiraka kounga teitei[^1], inā koaHiraka māpere[^5], he kanapa ataahua, he matatini, ehara i te kanapa noa iho. Me rite ki te pērara, me te kanapa ngawari e puta mai ana i roto i te papanga. I a koe e neke ana i te papanga, me takaro te māramatanga puta noa i te mata, ka hanga he wāhi māramatanga me te atarangi. Nā te mea ko te hanganga tapatoru o ngā muka hiraka ka huripokitia te māramatanga i ngā koki rerekē. Ko ngā satin hangai, he rerekē, he kanapa papatahi, he mā, he kanapa rawa hoki, ā, he rite tonu te āhua mai i ngā koki katoa. Tirohia hoki te whatu. Ko te papanga hiraka pai he whatu piri, he ōrite, kāore he hapa, he herenga rānei e kitea ana.

Ko tēhea te kounga pai rawa atu o te hiraka?

Kua rongo koe i ngā kupu pēnei i a Mulberry, Charmeuse, me Momme, engari he aha te tikanga o aua kupu? He pōhēhē. Ko tāu noa he hoko i te hiraka pai rawa atu, engari he uaua ki te whakataurite nā te nui o ngā kupu.Ko te hiraka pai rawa atu me te kounga teitei o te ao he 100%Hiraka māpere[^5] me te teiteiTatau o ngā māmā[^2]. I whakatipuria i roto i te herehere me te kai tino pakari o ngā rau māpere, teBombyx mori[^6]Ko te noke hiraka te mea e hanga ana i ngā muka hiraka roa rawa atu, kaha rawa atu, me te ōrite rawa atu, ka hangaia he papanga papai, kāore e rite.

Ka kī tonu ahau ki aku kiritaki, mēnā ko te mea tino pai rawa atu tā rātou e rapu nei, ko te whakautu koHiraka māpere[^5]. Mā te tiaki me te whakahaere e mahia ana i roto i tana mahi hanga ka hua ake he taumata kounga e kore e taea e ētahi atu hiraka te rite. Engari kia tino mārama ai koe he aha i pai ai, me mārama hoki koe ki tōna taumaha, e inehia ana e mātou i roto i te Momme.

He aha te hiraka māpere e tino rangatira ai

Ko te mea ngaro kiHiraka māpereKo te hiranga o [^5] kei roto i tōna hanga. Ko ngā noke hiraka, e mōhiotia whānuitia ana koBombyx mori[^6], ka whakatipuria i roto i te taiao whakahaeretia. Ka whāngaihia rātou ki tētahi kai motuhake o ngā rau o te rākau māpere. Mā tēnei tukanga tupato ka whakarite kia tino roa, kia mā, kia ōrite te matotoru o ngā muka hiraka e mirohia ana e rātou mō ā rātou kōkō. Ina whatua ēnei muka roa ki roto i te papanga, ka hangaia he rauemi tino maeneene, kaha, me te pakari. He rerekē, ko ngā "hiraka mohoao" i ahu mai i ngā noke e kai ana i ngā rau rerekē, ka hua ake he muka poto ake, kāore i te tino ōrite, kāore hoki i te tino ngohengohe, i te tino pakari rānei. Koinei te take ina haumi koe ki te 100%Hiraka māpere[^5], kei te haumi koe ki te kounga tino pai o te hiraka.

Te Tūranga o te Māmā i roto i te Kounga

Ko te Momme (mm) he ine taumaha Hapanihi, ā, koinei te paerewa mō te ine i te mātotoru o te hiraka. Whakaarohia he rite ki te maha o ngā miro mō te miro. Ko te tikanga o te tau Momme teitei ake he nui ake te hiraka e whakamahia ana e te papanga mō ia mita tapawha, ka taumaha ake, ka matotoru ake, ka pakari ake hoki. Ahakoa he pai te hiraka Momme māmā ake mō ngā hāri ngawari, he teitei akeTatau o ngā māmāHe mea nui ngā [^2] mō ngā taonga e whakamahia nuitia ana, pērā i ngā urunga urunga me ngā potae. Mō ēnei hua, ka tūtohu ahau kia tīmata ki te 19 Momme, engari ko te 22, 25 Momme rānei he wheako tino papai ake, ā, ka roa ake te mau o aua mea mēnā ka tiakina tika.

He aha ngā momo hiraka e whā?

Haunga te Mulberry, ka kite koe i ētahi atu momo pērā i a Tussah me Eri. He aha te rerekētanga? Ka tāpirihia e tēnei tētahi atu paparanga o te pōhēhētanga. Me mōhio noa koe ki te mea hei whiriwhiri māu mō tētahi hua kounga.Ahakoa he maha ngā momo hiraka, e whā ngā momo matua e taka ana: te Mulberry, te Tussah, te Eri, me te Muga. Ko te Mulberry te mea tino noa, ā, ko te mea tino kounga teitei. Ko ētahi atu e toru e mōhiotia ana ko ngā "hiraka mohoao," nā te mea i hangaia e ngā noke hiraka kāore i whakatipuria.

Neke atu i te 20 tau o taku mahi hiraka, he maha ngā papanga kua mahi ahau, engari ko taku arotahi tonu ko te whakarato i te mea pai rawa atu mā aku kiritaki. Koia te take i Wonderful Silk, e whakamahia ana e mātou te nuinga o ngāHiraka māpere[^5]. Ahakoa he ataahua motuhake ngā hiraka mohoao, kāore e taea te whakataurite i te ngawari, te kaha, me te maeneene e tumanakohia ana e ā mātou kiritaki mai i tētahi hua papai. Me tūhura poto ēnei momo matua e whā kia kite ai koe he aha te Mulberry te whiringa pai mō ngā taonga papai.

Te Toa Whakamana: Mulberry Silk

E ai ki tā tātou i kōrero ai,Hiraka māpereKo [^5] te paerewa koura. E 90% o te hiraka o te ao te nui o tēnei hiraka. I hangaia e teBombyx mori[^6]he roa, he ōrite, he mā hoki ōna muka. Mā tēnei ka taea te tae ōrite, ā, ka puta ko te papanga hiraka maeneene rawa, tino pakari rawa atu. Koinei anake te hiraka i hangaia e ngā hiraka whakatipuria, koia te take he tino ōrite, he tino pai hoki tōna kounga. Ina hoko koe i tētahi hua pēnei i te urunga hiraka, i te potae makawe rānei, koinei te momo hiraka e hiahiatia ana e koe.

Ngā Hiraka Mohoao

Ko ngā momo e toru e whakarōpūtia ana hei "hiraka mohoao" nā te mea kāore ngā noke hiraka e whakatipuria ana, engari e noho ana i roto i tō rātou ake kāinga tūturu.

• Hiraka Tussah[^8]:I hangaia e tētahi momo toke hiraka rerekē e kai ana i ngā rau ōki. He poto ake, he taratara ake ngā muka o tēnei hiraka, ā, he koura, he parauri rānei te tae. Kāore i te ngawari pērā iHiraka māpere[^5] ā, he uaua ake te tae.
• Eri Hiraka[^9]:E mōhiotia ana hoki ko te "hiraka rangimārie" nā te mea ka tukuna ngā noke hiraka kia puta mai i roto i ō rātou kōkō i mua i te hauhaketanga o te hiraka. He poto ake ngā muka, ā, he rite ki te huruhuru hipi, ki te miro rānei te kakano, ā, kāore i te maeneene i teHiraka māpere[^5].
• Muga Silk[^10]:I hangaia tēnei hiraka mohoao onge, utu nui hoki e ngā noke hiraka i Assam, Īnia. E mōhiotia ana mō tōna kanapa koura tūturu me tōna pakari rawa, engari nā te kaha o te kakano, kāore e pai mō ngā mahi ngawari pērā i ngā urunga.
  

  Momo Hiraka	Kai mō ngā noke hiraka	Ngā Āhuatanga o te Muka	Whakamahinga Matua
  Māpere	Rau māpere	Roa, maeneene, ōrite, mā parakore	Ngā moenga papai[^7], kākahu
  Tusah	Ōki me ētahi atu rau	He poto ake, he taratara ake, he tae koura tūturu	Ngā papanga taumaha, ngā koti
  Eri	Rau kātoro	Poto, huruhuru hipi, matotoru, māwhero	Ngā hāri, ngā paraikete
  Muga	Rau Som me Soalu	He koura māori, he pakari, he matotoru	Ngā kākahu tuku iho o Īnia

Whakamutunga

Ko te rerekētanga i waenga i te hiraka utu iti me te hiraka utu nui ko te pūtake, te taumaha, me te āhua. He kounga teiteiHiraka māpere[^5] me te teitei akeTatau o ngā māmā[^2] e tuku ana i te ngawari, te pakari, me te papai e kore e taea te whakataurite.

[^1]: Mā te mārama ki ngā āhuatanga o te hiraka kounga teitei ka āwhina i a koe ki te whakatau hoko whai whakaaro. [^2]: Akohia te Momme count kia mārama ai koe ki te pānga ki te kounga me te roa o te hiraka. [^3]: Kia matatau ki te Whakamātautau Pā kia māmā ai te tautuhi i te hiraka kounga teitei i te wā e hokohoko ana. [^4]: Tūhurahia tēnei whakamātautau kia mārama ai koe ki te whakaata a te hiraka i te māramatanga me tōna kounga whatu. [^5]: Kimihia he aha te hiraka māpere te paerewa koura mō te kounga hiraka me tana tukanga whakaputa ahurei. [^6]: Akohia te hiraka Bombyx mori me tana mahi ki te whakaputa hiraka kounga teitei. [^7]: Kimihia he aha te hiraka te whiringa pai mō ngā moenga papai me ōna painga. [^8]: Akohia te hanga a Tussah Silk me ōna āhuatanga motuhake ki te whakataurite ki te hiraka māpere. [^9]: Kimihia ngā āhuatanga ahurei o Eri Silk me ōna tono i roto i ngā kakahu. [^10]: Tūhurahia te onge me ngā āhuatanga o Muga Silk, he momo hiraka mohoao ahurei.